Return to Travel – Zimbabwe: The Journey to Victoria Falls

2020-11-05T23:40:38-05:00November 5th, 2020|

I knew Denver International Airport would be busier than I expected, and it was. There was room for social distancing until boarding. While United boarded by row from back to front, the queue was uncomfortably close and resembled the usual chaos of boarding. There was no distancing on the boarding ramp or in the plane while boarding. My recommendation would be to just wait until the last minute to board and check your bag do you don’t have to worry about getting overhead space. My flight to Chicago was quite full, but I did have an empty middle seat (because of status, not because united are keeping them open). If you would feel more comfortable with an empty seat, choose your airline carefully.

Chicago O’Hare was also busy – not as busy as normal, but busier than I might have expected. I waited longer to board this time and was rewarded with no one at the gate when I arrived. The gate agent asked my final destination, and when I told him Zimbabwe, he went to check regulations. I already had my (electronic) negative PCR COVID test results handy. He was satisfied and let me board. On the United flight to London, I was one of only four people in business class and economy couldn’t have had more than 35 people.

Next stop London. Heathrow was busy as well, despite (or maybe because of?) the UK lockdown looming in the upcoming week. I had a very long (13 hours) layover, so I found a day room in at the Premiere Inn at LHR Terminal 4 to relax for a few hours. One day later and I couldn’t have due to the lockdown as all hotels were closing. The Lufthansa Lounge at LHR was fine. They were serving plated food (rather than buffet) and drinks. Mask wearing was not enforced in the lounge (something I found true in every lounge on the journey). Boarding on my Ethiopian flight was organized and I again had an empty seat next to me in business class after a shuffling of seats. I’m not sure I would have been comfortable in economy as it was bustling. But I’ve never seen an Ethiopian flight that wasn’t bustling – even during a pandemic!

On arrival in Addis Ababa, I went in search of the Star Alliance Gold Lounge and was pleased to see the old Sheba lounge was reduced to rubble – as it should have been. The new lounge is cavernous and allows for great social distancing, but is still quirky and very Ethiopian. Food is a buffet, which I found surprising in these times, but there is plenty of hand sanitizer. The views of the city from the lounge are fabulous. The international (intra-African) departures area was new and unremarkable – it reminded me of Joburg regional departure terminal – uninspiring but fine. Social distancing was only enforced from chair blockage – again it’s just about impossible to be 2 meters apart. BUT, most people wear masks and if you’re wearing yours, it obviously makes a difference.

And finally, I was on my to VFA! My flight made a stop in Ndola, Zambia. Ethiopian are clearly trying to be creative to make their flights profitable! There was about one person in every three seats, so very comfortable from a social distancing standpoint. At Ndola there was a fairly large exodus and then an influx of passengers, most of whom were going to Addis. When I got off in VFA, only about 15-20 people disembarked. It made health screening easy, but it was disappointing to see.

On arrival in VFA the most notable difference was the number of passengers getting off – fewer than two dozen. I was one of the first to the screening desk. Rather than filling out your own health form, a Zimbabwe official does it for you, after having you sanitize your hands, taking your temperature and checking your COVID test results while doing so. I showed an electronic copy of my test results but to be safe, I’d always try to bring a printed copy. My recommendation in these times is to be kind but very confident and assertive. I actually pointed out the PCR designation on my test results.  A second stop with another official confirms the purpose of your visit and how you are doing prior to going to immigration and purchasing your arrival visa ($30 for Americans). After getting my visa, I was off to collect luggage and After getting my visa, I was off to collect luggage and into the arrivals hall where I was met by the smiling faces of New Frontiers’ Bronwyn Bezuidenhout and Imvelo’s John Laing!

Note: You can get a COVID test on arrival in VFA. This would only be necessary if you’re showing symptoms or didn’t get your test results prior to landing. There is an area just past immigration for test administration and a separate waiting area as guests await results, which typically come back within 2-3 hours. The cost is approx. $60 (but I’d recommend bringing $100 in cash just in case).

About the Author:

Gretchen Healey
Gretchen is the Marketing Director for the Kusini Collection.

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