Top 5 Namibia FAM experiences with Ultimate Safaris

In May 2025, I hosted a group of Africa specialists on an epic Namibia FAM trip with Ultimate Safaris. For this FAM, we decided to focus entirely on northwest Namibia and the Kunene region, which encompasses Damaraland and the Skeleton Coast National Park. To me, this region is the heart and soul of a good Namibia safari (no offense to Sossusvlei or Etosha!). This is where you’ll find Namibia’s incredibly successful communal conservancies, home to the majority of the desert-adapted wildlife – elephants, rhino and lion – along with the most remote and otherworldly landscapes Namibia has to offer.

In my opinion, this region is best explored by road. But seeing Namibia by road is not a given these days. Many visitors, especially on high end safaris, embark on flying safaris to save time and avoid long drives, which is understandable, especially for Americans with limited vacation time. But traveling by vehicle lets you slow down and really absorb Namibia’s awesome landscapes and vast emptiness. It also saves a bit of money, so working in a drive or two in an itinerary can serve dual purposes.

To be clear, the country’s long drives aren’t for everyone, but for those with a thirst for adventure and the desire to really soak in the beauty of a place, they shouldn’t be missed. If you can only do one drive, I’d recommend the Damaraland/Kunene region where you have so much to see – geological formations, little towns, desert-adapted wildlife and truly awesome landscapes. And when you are with an Ultimate guide, they bring it all to life in a really special way.

Skeleton Coast road trip and meeting Dr. Flip Stander of Desert Lion Conservation

Most international travelers are not going to drive from Swakopmund to Shipwreck Lodge but rather fly to Mowe Bay and then transfer the remaining 90 minutes to the lodge by vehicle. But on our recent Ultimate Safaris FAM, we didn’t fly but instead took an epic road trip up the famed Skeleton Coast to reach Shipwreck Lodge (Ultimate does offer this drive as an option for guests too). It’s one of the most desolate yet starkly beautiful places on earth. And our timing was incredible – because of the recent rains, there was greenery everywhere – something not very common in this part of the world, especially since Namibia has been in a decade-long drought. We saw succulents and lichens that wouldn’t ordinarily be there. Even Franco, our amazing Ultimate Safaris guide, hadn’t seen some of these plants before!

Traveling over 250 miles, we passed numerous shipwrecks in various states of rusty decay, old abandoned diamond mines and an oil rig, plus miles and miles of empty and desolate beaches that are home to gulls, cormorants and 260,000 cape fur seals in two massive colonies. It’s not just transportation to the destination – there is plenty to see and do, and when you’re traveling with one of Ultimate’s exceptional guides, they will make the journey really special.

Our good timing continued when we arrived in Mowe Bay. Our group had the honor and privilege to visit Dr Philip Stander (aka Flip), founder and director of Desert Lion Conservation, at his home and research base in Mowe Bay. Dr. Stander showed everyone generous Namibian hospitality and shared amazing insights into his life’s work protecting the desert lions of the Skeleton Coast! This was a rare treat as Dr. Stander is rarely at home – he is generally out in the field doing conservation work. We just happened by at a time when his vehicle was in need of repair – hardly surprising given the extreme terrain he works in!

Desert-adapted black rhino tracking 

Ultimate’s Camp Doros is located in the Doros Joint Management Area, a community conservancy in Namibia’s stunning Damaraland region. This region supports the ONLY remaining free-roaming black rhino population in the world. And there are only a handful of camps/conservancies which offer visitors the opportunity to track and observe these critically endangered animals roaming free in their natural environment. Ultimate partners with Rhino Rangers from the local communities, trained and equipped by Save the Rhino Trust (SRT), to lead black rhino tracking excursions in this remote area. It was such a privilege to walk with these men (and women) who possess such deep knowledge of rhinos and their surroundings.

On a black rhino tracking excursion with SRT, the goal, ideally, is for the rhino to never know you are there, ensuring that trekking impacts them as little as possible. The idea is to avoid habituating the rhinos to human presence to help protect them. Only one rhino has been poached in the 43 year history of SRT protecting them (SRT was founded in 1982). This is on vast, unfenced lands that are patrolled by the SRT community Rhino Rangers.

Starting in the early morning, the SRT Rhino Rangers track and then locate the rhino and call in their approximate location to camp. We left Camp Doros after breakfast, and after a short 20-30 minute drive we arrived at the trekking point where the Rhino Rangers met us. From that point, it was only a short walk to see the rhinos. On this day, we were extremely lucky to see three black rhinos – a mother, baby (18 mos. old) and a male – from a distance of 100m (this is the closest you can get). We spent about 30 minutes watching them and taking photos. Being in awe of these desert-adapted creatures and feeling privileged.

After we left the rhinos, the rangers showed us the signs that helped them track the animals. A footprint here, a leaf out of place there, a broken branch…small signs and clues that most of us would miss. Incredible!

Desert-adapted elephant tracking

One must-do Namibia experience when visiting Damaraland is tracking desert-adapted elephants. Unlike the rhino, the elephant tracking activity is done by vehicle. Desert-adapted elephants can be found throughout northwest Namibia, typically in one of a handful of ephemeral river valleys. But the best area for finding them is in Damaraland near Twyfelfontein in the Huab River valley, largely due to the fact that there are more elephants (approx. 30) than in the other rivers.

Ultimate Safaris has two camps in this area – Onduli Ridge and Camp Doros. We were a bit concerned about finding the elephants because of the historic rains this season. More rain leads to more options for water which tends lead to the dispersal of the elephants into the nearby Erongo mountains. But with Franco being the extraordinary guide he is, we located a breeding herd of 5-6 elephants including an 8 or 9 month old calf, plus two bulls hanging around on the periphery of the herd – WOW! Finding sleeping elephants is always a highlight and for some reason, the desert-adapted eles seem to enjoy sleeping on their side more than others, in my experience. Seeing elephants on their side snoring away under a tree is a rare and beautiful sight!

The Huab River valley was especially beautiful after the rains, laden with greenery, making for an incredible backdrop and a really unique sighting. Like rhino tracking, it’s not about seeing huge numbers of game, you’re instead out searching for one specific species. It’s about the journey of tracking, learning from your guide and then finding a small number of animals and observing them in their wild environment.

In Ultimate Safaris style, after spending an hour with the elephants, we drove a safe distance away and Franco brought out the “magic picnic box,” laying out an amazing lunch in the dry Huab River. It was the perfect way to finish an incredible morning.

Shipwreck Lodge

My last visit to Shipwreck Lodge a few years ago left me a bit underwhelmed (I recognize how incredibly lucky I am to have visited Shipwreck twice!). It wasn’t up to their typical standard. Most people rave about the experience, so on this return visit, I was curious to if/how things had improved since my last visit.

This visit was exceptional all around with fantastic food, service and guiding. I love the rooms at Shipwreck – they strike the right balance of simplicity and comfort. They have thoughtful touches you need including fireplaces (it does get cold most of the year at night) while honoring the coast and the many shipwrecks in its nautical-themed design and decor.

In such a remote and harsh environment as the Skeleton Coast, Shipwreck Lodge is one of those places you can’t believe is actually there, let alone so incredibly comfortable, wildly unique and cleverly designed.  In the middle of what feels like absolutely nowhere, there’s an amazing lodge where you can be warm, cozy and well cared for on the Skeleton Coast’s cold mornings and nights. It’s almost unfathomable to have that level of comfort in a place so remote.

The activities available at the lodge are fantastic. ATVing up and down dunes, sandboarding, beachcombing and the general joy of being in the middle of nowhere. Oh and sundowners on a deserted Skeleton Coast beach with an expertly made G&T in hand!

Onduli Ridge

Onduli Ridge is truly exceptional in every possible way. Sure, you can accuse me of being biased because I represent Ultimate Safaris. But feel free to ask around. I think you’ll find the consensus is, I’m right about Onduli, biased or not! It’s my favorite property in Namibia and not just because it’s an Ultimate retreat. It offers the right amount of luxury and privacy without being over the top. Even though there are other rooms and guests, you feel like you’re by yourself when you’re tucked away in your room, which is perfectly appointed. And a star bed without having to leave your room? Yep, sleeping under the stars with your super comfy bed rolled out onto the veranda is without question, epic.

Onduli’s exceptional service is notable and the food – from pizza night to mezze platters for lunch to multi-course dinners – is culinary perfection. Onduli is also home to one of the most amazing sundowner spots anywhere and the infinity pool is a serious treat in the desert heat. Oh and the ebikes are awesome! There’s a network of mostly flat trails (about 17km total) around the lodge which you can embark on a guided biking safari. Franco and I rode into a tower of giraffes and did some citizen science for the Giraffe Conservation Foundation, noting down the number of giraffe, their location, condition and sex.

We also had the chance to have sundowners one night at Onduli Enclave, Ultimate’s 3 bedroom private villa around the corner of the kopje from Onduli Ridge. You would never know this retreat was there unless someone showed it to you. Located nearly at the top of the kopje, it has amazing elevated views of the vast plains plus views of the Brandberg Mountains in the distance. Each of the three spacious rooms have indoor and outdoor showers and a private verandah with a wood hot tub. Guests are cared for by a private butler and chef. There is also a tv/movie room that can be converted into a young kids room. The villa also has its own pool. Basically everything you could possibly need! It sleeps up to 6 adults and 4 kids. Like Onduli Ridge, it also strikes the right balance between luxury and comfort but not over the top or stuffy in any way.

Bonus highlight: The stone men

These cool sculptures really add to the experience of a road trip in Namibia. Most are in the Kunene in really remote places. You’re roadtripping through incredible landscapes looking out for these unique sculptures – kind of like a Where’s Waldo style scavenger hunt. We were lucky enough to find three on our journey. It’s a great way to break up a long drive, and the perfect excuse to stop, stretch the legs and take a few photos.  Each is completely unique in how and where they are arranged, and they are just off the road so they are accessible for eagle-eyed roadtrippers to spot and appreciate!