Most people that fly into Baja California Sur land in SJD – the San Jose del Cabo airport. And a disproportionate number of them stay in the immediate vicinity, missing out on much of the state’s beauty, culture, culinary richness and an unimaginable variety of underwater wildlife. Gretchen was lucky enough to go way beyond Cabo (and also beyond much-loved Todos Santos) with Todos Santos Eco Adventures (TOSEA) to dig deeper into their glamping options in the Sierra Mountains and the Sea of Cortez (including experiencing the new Camp Cuevas!), as well as spending some eye-opening time in the charming capital city of La Paz. Here are her top 5 trip highlights from the April TOSEA FAM.
Time on and in the water
I hate to admit this, but I’m not in possession of a good pair of sea legs. I have gotten seasick in more bodies of water than I care to count. BUT, I’ve found ways to work around it (including Bonine, which is a lifesaver for me) – usually just to get from point a to point b, or to survive an excursion of some sort. Not on this trip. We were on and in the water, sometimes for hours at a time, and I loved every minute of it! From our journey to Isla San Jose – complete with a stop at El Pardito, home of the warm and wonderful Cuevas family – to the hours spent snorkeling and kayaking, I couldn’t get enough of the Sea of Cortez.
Isla San Jose is +/- 3 hours from La Paz by boat and it’s a beautiful ride. We were serenaded by dolphins, humpback whales and leaping rays on our journey while pelicans raced alongside our boat. Once there, snorkeling highlights included spotting more species than I could count and swimming with Guadeloupe fur seals. We also kayaked along the coast, paddling through natural rock arches and soaking in the incredible scenery of the uninhabited island and the Sea of Cortez.
We also had the chance to visit a pristine estuary on the southern tip of Isla San Jose. Its mangrove forests shelter sea and bird life including the endangered eastern hawksbill turtle, which we were lucky enough to spot several of. These are the very species that inspired the Cuevas brothers to trade in their shark hunting lives for becoming champions of conservation and guardians of the sea.
The food!
Everyone loves Mexican food, right? It would be my desert island cuisine – I could eat it every day for eternity and never get bored. The salsa varieties are endless (and are present and abundant at every meal). Breakfast – a meal that I often feel is perfunctory – was a huge delight every day. I had to sample and resample (and resample!) chilaquiles divorcados to take seriously the very daunting task of deciding if I’m a red or a green salsa person. (I landed on green but they’re both amazing). Plus huevos rancheros. Heaven! And the seafood! From the crispy fish fillets we enjoyed as part of our picnic on the boat in the estuary of Isla San Jose to the many, many kinds of ceviche and aguachile that I tried, it was one of the most delicious trips ever!
I should make special mention of the food at Camp Cuevas and Camp Cecil de la Sierra. A special shout out to Martin at the Sierra camp – from the fresh ingredients we harvested at the ranch and the outstanding vegetarian dishes to the homemade pizza night, everything was outstanding!
La Paz
I had been to La Paz before, but I hadn’t really been to La Paz. Between Manuelito, our awesome TOSEA guide, and a local artist, Uli Martinez, I now feel like I’ve gotten under the skin of the city and feel a happy new familiarity with it. It’s an easy, laid-back place, but there’s more to it than what’s on the surface. We began to discover that with Uli on a street art walking tour where he showed us some of his prolific collection of murals throughout the city, along with other artists’ work. His work focuses on themes of environmental conservation, identity, respect, unity and love. One project we learned about on the tour is called “The Color of Memory,” which works to preserve community stories and legends by interviewing older people and capturing their stories in murals so that future generations will not lose their past. We were also fortunate to visit with him on another day in his studio, learning about his processes, passions and what he was working on.
We also discovered the city through its food and on foot. The downtown is super walkable and approachable. We walked miles up and down the malecon, as well as on myriad streets. It gave the opportunity to get a feel for the neighborhoods and to enjoy some fantastic people watching. We tried several restaurants, many serving primarily Pazenos (locals from La Paz) and some serving more tourists. (Again – the food was so amazing!). The local haunts definitely gave us insight into the vibe of the city.
Glamping
I love to camp but I don’t always love all the work it takes. Enter glamping. TOSEA’s camps have everything you need and nothing you don’t. Comfortable bedding with lovely linens, all the necessary kit for daily ablutions, excellent food and drink, and of course spectacular surrounds. Whether the twinkling skies above Camp Cuevas with its soundtrack of gently lapping waves or the smell of the campfire (and the occasional call of a peacock – yes, really) and the blissful quiet of Camp Cecil de la Sierra high up in the mountains, these are special places where TOSEA leaves no footprint and you can take lasting memories home with you with almost no work on your part. You just have to show up and be open to adventure.
The People
Starting with our exceptional guide Manuelito – someone who I swear wakes up happy every day – everyone we encountered during our time in Mexico was unfailingly warm and welcoming. The Cuevas family shared their home, their food and their stories with us, while Felipe accompanied us throughout our time at Camp Cuevas, generously sharing his knowledge of the Sea of Cortez, conservation and the life has led living on El Pardito. The camp staff – Abraham, Luis and Omar at Camp Cuevas and Martin, Josue and Lulu at Camp Cecil de la Sierra – cared for us like visiting family. The ranchero family at Camp Cecil de la Sierra – including Dona Luz, Don Cata and Ragelio – shared their knowledge of cooking (making homemade tortillas with Dona Luz which we filled with freshly made cheese and smothered in honey), leatherworking with Don Cata and harvesting dinner ingredients with Ragelio. Uli, the artist we spent so much time with in La Paz and one of his colleagues Rebecca were so open with their artistic process and vision as well as sharing what makes their city special. And of course Bryan and Sergio from TOSEA are unfailingly wonderful. A huge thank you to the TOSEA family for this fantastic experience!
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