Tad and a lucky group of tour operators and agents went on a comprehensive familiarization trip to Kenya with Albatros East Africa earlier this year. Here are the top highlights from their adventures.
Running with a Maasai warrior
Campi ya Kanzi is one of only two properties (the other is its sister property, Chyulu Lodge) located on 280,000 acres of Maasai owned land – talk about the luxury of exclusivity! Both properties support the Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust.
Guests of Campi ya Kanzi and Chyulu Lodge have the opportunity to go on a bush run, with a Maasai guide, during a stay. As a runner, that was something I was not going to miss! My running guide was Parashi, one of Campi ya Kanzi’s original Maasai guides, his tenure dating back to the early 2000’s. He’s an accomplished runner, having run the NYC marathon at least twice! We met early in the morning of our final day and started with some light stretching before discussing how long of a run and what pace I wanted to keep. I told him just don’t leave me in the dust! I showed up in my muzungu running shoes and Parashi was in his traditional Maasai tire sandals that I wouldn’t make it a mile in!
The wildlife is not as abundant in early January in the wildlife reserve which surrounds the lodge, thanks to East Africa’s short rains, so it’s safe to run inside the reserve during this time of year. During the dry season (July – October) where wildlife is more plentiful, runs take place in the community lands, just outside of the wildlife area for safety. On our run, we saw leopard tracks, buffalo spoor, and other evidence of wildlife – it was pretty exciting. I managed to keep up with Parashi…probably because he let me!
Other highlights on the run were glimpses of Mount Kilimanjaro and the chance to hear some of Parashi’s story. He is a bit older and is of the generation of Massai who had to kill a lion to become a moran (warrior). He was seriously injured during the coming of age ritual and spent two months housebound on the mend from his lion encounter because no health care was locally available at the time. Parashi is grateful that things have changed and that healthcare is now available and that Maasai rituals have modernized, protecting the wildlife.
The Maasai guides will tailor the outing to the guests’ fitness level. I highly recommend it – it’s a thrill to run in the bush with a Maasai warrior – and to survive the experience!
Lion “bowls” a pack of hyena off a kill in the Mara North Conservancy
During our time staying at Richard’s Camp we were out on an early morning game drive when we came across a pack of hyena devouring a zebra carcass. It was a fairly typical hyenas-on-a-kill sighting with lots of noise, the animals darting in for bites and vultures circling above waiting for their turn. After 15-20 minutes of watching the fascinating hyena clan activity, everything changed in an instant. Over our right shoulders on the right side of the vehicle a huge male lion burst out of nowhere and sprinted past the vehicle, scattering the hyenas like bowling pins! He absolutely tore on to the scene to claim – or perhaps reclaim – the kill. The hyenas skulked around well distant from the scene, nursing their wounded pride. What a thrill!
Scenic flight from Chyulu Hills to the Mara
Of our four scenic flights with Scenic Air Safaris (all of which were enjoyable), this was the highlight! We started over Amboseli where we spotted eles from the air. The pilot took us up to a higher elevation for a bit then swept back down over the soda lakes between Amboseli and the Mara. He took us low so we could see big flocks of flamingos and the incredible reddish/brown color of soda lakes, which was a huge contrast with the post-short rains emerald green of the Mara. The Scenic Air pilot was fantastic – he talked us through what we were seeing and at the right times took us low for great views. I got to sit up front in the right seat, which as a former private pilot, is always a thrill and brings back lots of memories of my own time as pilot in command. I highly recommend asking Albatros to book at least one scenic flight with Scenic Air for your guests on a high-end Kenya trip. It’s truly spectacular while also saving a lot of time – I suggest using it on a route that will help avoid a stop in NBO.
Sundowners at Campi Ya Kanzi & Enasoit Lodge
Sundowners are always a highlight while on safari, but from Chyulu Hills the views of Kilimanjaro in the distance are stunning. Perched on a rock in the Chyulus, looking out over Amboseli and soaking in the setting sun behind Kili was an unforgettable sundowner experience! What a way to kick off our FAM trip!
Then at Enasoit, a wonderful exclusive-use lodge in Laikpia, the team set up our sundowners on a kopjie overlooking the reserve. We had lovely snacks, cold Tuskers and great G+T’s. One of the key ingredients of a spectacular sundowner is expansive views and at Enasoit, they had them in spades.
Rhino bonanza at Nairobi National Park
Wow wow wow! I had heard so many people talk about how underrated the park is, especially when it comes to rhino and lions, and in one two hour evening drive from The Emakoko we saw about a dozen rhino – both black and white – in different landscapes/backdrops (think bush and then another sighting with a massive city in the background – it’s mind boggling!). Our drive finished along the Mbagathi River, driving through a stunning fever tree forest with the setting sun sparkling through the pale, yellow green trees.. And then, as if the experience could be made better, we came across a mom and baby rhino! They were very relaxed as they were feeding. We were late for sundowners and dinner back at the Emakoko but we stopped to take in the scene – the setting sun through the trees and the silence, only the sounds of the distant river gurgling and the rhinos munching on dinner – true safari magic. It was the perfect ending to the FAM. It’s hard to reconcile what an outstanding resource Nairobi NP is – incredible wildlife in a beautiful setting bordering a city of nearly 4.5 million people.I’d highly recommend at least one night at The Emakoko, before or after your Kenya safari.
Bonus highlight! Relaxed serval stalking prey in the Mara (Musiara Swamps)
This was the most relaxed serval I’ve ever seen. We spotted her on the road and followed her while she attempted a hunt. She clearly did not care about our presence and we were able to spend 10 min watching the cat in the high grass during our stay at Tangulia Camp.
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