South Africa Trip Report: Northern Kruger, Timbavati and Sabi Sand Reserves

May 2013, Kruger, Timbavati and Sabi Sand Game Reserves
by Lyndsay Harshman

May 3 – Johnnesburg Arrival

After arriving from AMS and finding that the majority of the luggage on our flight was delayed en route, I tried to sort things out with BidAIr (which was hopeless) and walked to the bus terminal for the complimentary shuttle to Emperor’s Palace and the Peermond Mondior Hotel. The bus terminal is immediately outside of the arrivals hall, across the street and past the Intercontinental.

All offsite hotels that offer shuttle services depart from this terminal and operate on a regular basis until 11pm. It’s a quick 10 minute ride to Emperor’s Palace and the spot is quite convenient for a transit night as the hotels are located with direct access to the mall, casino and restaurants, all in a very secure area.

The Peermont Mondior is a 4* option (the D’Oreale Grand is the 5*) in Emperor’s Palace just a short shuttle ride away from the airport. Peermont tends to be quite consistent with service levels and immediately upon arrival the staff was pleasant, smiling and very helpful. They were sympathetic to my delayed luggage situation, offered me toiletries and told me there was a Mr Price shopping center just down the road if I wanted to go in the morning. The rooms are a bit small, but for an airport/transit hotel, they are just fine. In room amenities included coffee/tea service, safe, bathrobes, ethernet connection, TV, hairdryer, writing desk, luggage rack and separate shower and tub in the bathroom. Oddly, there was no alarm clock or clock radio, wi-fi was not available in the rooms (only the cable connection). The room itself was nicely decorated and with high ceilings it did feel spacious in spite of its size. The bathroom – tub, shower, toilet and single sink basin needed a bit of freshening ie new grout in spots. WIth a closing door, the set-up is ideal for people traveling together who aren’t so keen on the open-style bathroom. Once again, all fine for an overnight. I have to say that the linens were immaculate and perfectly pressed, pillow selection was great and the bed was incredibly comfortable. Breakfast the next morning was both hot and cold buffet and omelette station. The food was good and service was great. Check out was seamless and we waited just a few minutes for the airport shuttle to arrive and whisk us off to OR Tambo. I would tend, for client purposes, to categorize this as a 3+ star as the rooms were quite small and needed a little bit of love. But, for an overnight in transit near the airport, it’s solid.

Luckily Jo’burg isn’t the worst place to experience a luggage delay. They have an on-site Wollworth’s with a full cosmetics and clothing department, so I happily took my delayed luggage credit and outfitted myself with some options for the next few days. NB: KLM reimbursed me for ALL my extra expenses, which totalled about $250 so bravo to KLM! My bag was waiting for me when I arrived Durban and I’ve never been so happy to see safari clothes!

May 4 – The Outpost, Limpopo region of northern Kruger

From Jo’burg we boarded our flight to Phalaborwa in the North of Kruger in the Limpopo region. I hadn’t been that far north in the area and I was looking forward to seeing the different landscapes, baobab’s, red rock gorges and the great, green, greasy Limpopo River. We landed in Phalaborwa and connected with a charter hop in a funky, cool Albatross plane to the airstrip closest to Pafuri gate (a mining airstrip). From there it is one hour on mostly paved roads through the Pafuri Gate into the Outpost.

The Outpost has just joined the Seasons in Africa portfolio and with the recent closure (due to the recent devastating floods) of Wilderness Adventure Pafuri Camp, it is really the only option in this incredibly unique area. The lodge is set on a high ridge overlooking the surrounding rolling rock hills and dry river bed. The lodge is very open and has a Scandinavian industrial edge to it – very different from the other Seasons lodges, which tend to be more classic safari style. I generally enjoyed the contrast and the modern steel beam and concrete styling and the open design maximizes the expansive views. The dining and main lounge area is nicely styled with leather chairs in front of a wide fire place, cowhide ottomans and chaise loungers. Finishings in the main areas are nicely done and the open bar separates the “in-door” but still completely open-air dining room from the lounge area. A glass encased wine cellar and a beautifully printed wall map add interest to the room. The pool is outdoors to the side and overlooks the view. There is a small fire pit and on warmer evenings dinners are outside next to the pool with its two water spouts flowing into the water.

Each of the 12 suites is on either side of the public area and span out along a raised boardwalk. All of the rooms face the view of the mountains and dry river bed. Something key to note is all rooms are completely open on three sides, with the back wall being thick cement. The steel beam frame is closed in my automatic screen walls that the guest can open and close at will. Each room has an outdoor lounge area with chaise, and indoor two-person lounger, writing desk, pretty and sleek wooden furniture and en suite bath comprised of a beautiful soaking tub with a view, double sinks and mirrors, and separate toilet (which is completely enclosed, so nice for travelers sharing a room). An interesting feature is the closet which is located in the wall between the bedroom and the bathroom and is a rolling shelf that can be pulled out to add privacy to the bathtub/sink area. Rooms do have A/C, hairdryers, yoga mats and mini-bars. Oddly there aren’t coffee/tea service, bath salts, candles or reading materials in the rooms. I do think that with the monkeys around, it’s difficult to offer an in-room coffee and tea station, but in that case it would be nice to do in-room coffee with wake up call. My only real complaint with the rooms is that they are a bit sparse given the modern design. Further finishings are needed to add some atmosphere and warmth to the space. Also, the gift shop area near the library was empty and in such a remote location it is a good idea to have a few items such a sunscreen, scarves and local curios should guests need to pick up an item or want to take something home.

Ali (Alweet), our guide, was actually one of the best guides I have had on safari. He was extremely engaging, good humored, well spoken and an excellent naturalist. These factors combined led to a dynamic and exciting game experience. Every bird, plant or animal that we stopped to take a look at became a highlight of our journey and everything from the leopard to the armored ground cricket garnered interest. We had excellent game drives, spotting elephant, nyala, kudu, warthog, klipspringer, buffalo, zebra and a variety of bird species. Ali’s crowning achievement of our time with him was spotting two leopards in one day and a bat hawk, which is apparently quite a rare sight. In addition to the game drives, the lodge offers excursions to the Thumalela ruins (connected to the kingdom of Great Zimbabwe), the Lanner Gorge, the Limpopo River and the Crooks Corner are available. Unfortunately, we were not able to visit the ruins or Crooks Corner due to road damage from the floods in January. We did head to Lanner Gorge for sundowners one evening and the view was absolutely stunning – truly a highlight of my entire trip and probably one of the most memorable experiences in South Africa to date. The vistas from the edge of the deep, red-rock gorge with the Luvuvu River running through it was breathtaking. For me, it was more impressive than the Grand Canyon, not because of the size, but because of the surrounding scenery, lush vegetation, baobabs scattered around, Fish eagle flying and hippos in the river below. Sundowners perched on the edge of the cliff with the river roaring hundreds and hundreds of feet below.

On our way back to the lodge from sundowners, Ali spotted our second leopard. The leopard sightings in this area of Kruger and the concession are much more wild as the cats are very shy compared to in the Sabi Sands, but equally incredible nonetheless. Our last dinner at the Outpost was in their boma, and was beautifully done – secreted away behind the main lounge area behind a hidden door. As usual with a boma, lots of beautiful lanters, a fire pit and some beautiful trees. Charmaine, the manageress, was so attentive and immediately noticed that we were cuddled up in the lounge area with blankets and grabbed them up for us and brought them into the boma for us. Dinner was pork chop and beef fillet and was a significant improvement on the previous night (the lamb the night before was quite tough and I wonder if it was rather mutton). Accompaniments were tasty and the lemon pudding dessert was quite good. The baked goods at The Outpost were excellent, tea/coffee and bar service was also very good. The bartender was very adaptable and made us a delicious margarita on Cinco de Mayo!

Overall, the staff, guiding, game and landscapes were highlights at The Outpost. The rooms were stunning in terms of space and views, but do need some artistic/interior design attention to bring the finishings up to the level of the main areas and, I think, that guests would expect of a solid 4 star property. Ali was a SUPERB guide and the staff was the most friendly and proud local team that I experienced on this trip. This is a great option for safari veterans or those looking for a secondary/supplemental safari destination in South Africa that is more wild, less traveled and filled with a variety of game and non-game activities. Access is a bit tricky and the transfer vehicle needs some attention (Seasons in Africa has added new vehicles since we were there!), but utilizing the flights between Timbavati and Phalaborwa would be ideal (King’s Camp / Waterbuck) are the Season’s properties in the area. The lodge would also combine well with Tanda Tula, Simbambili or Ngala Tented.

May 5 – Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

After the 40 min flight from the airstrip closest to The Outpost (1 hr drive – dirt and paved roads, the Pafuri airstrip was severely damaged, which is putting it nicely, in the January 2013 floods that also destroyed the camp and is no longer in use) to Phalaborwa, we picked a rental car up at the airport and drove down the R40 to the Timbavati Gate (approximately 1.5 hrs) and into Tanda Tula. Roads are good and while I wouldn’t recommend that pax self-drive (as they then pay for the vehicle to sit at the lodge for several days), the transfer would be just fine in a transfer vehicle with a driver.

Tanda Tula has 12 tents (one of the few true permanent tented options in the area) with attached en suite bathroom (indoor bathtub, outdoor shower, single sink basin, flush toilet and wardrobe), writing desk, fans, safe and amenities including robes, slippers and a carafe of sherry. Three tents feature a single day bed in addition to the twin/king bed so they can accommodate families or three adults wanting to share. The bathroom is only separated from the sleeping/tent area by a cloth curtain, which doesn’t offer loads of privacy. The outdoor shower can be chilly in winter months, but the indoor bath is an option then. All tents face the dry riverbed and have spacious verandahs with comfortable chairs and a table – a great spot to chill in the afternoon and catch up on your travel journal. Public areas at Tanda Tula are beautifully decorated in Nina’s own version of safari shabby-chic and offer plenty of spaces to relax and unwind when not out in the bush. The pool overlooks an active dam (the South African term for a reservoir) with a resident hippo that is closely watched, especially at night when guests are escorted back to their tents. The boma provides a great option for a different dinner venue and the breakfast and lunch area overlooks the dry riverbed. Wi-fi is available in the main lounge area. Tanda Tula also offers a variety of experiences in addition to game viewing; they offer walking, a birding hide and true walking safaris with overnight fly camping. This is a great spot for a 3+ night stay. We had very successful game drives with lion (a mom with 3 sub-adult sons), an active pack of wild dog, elephants, giraffe, zebra and tons of impala, as usual. I was a little surprised at the lack of general game, but the area is more bushy so there is less plains game. Dale, the GM (along with his wife Hailey), was our guide and he was indeed very good. I learned quite a bit of new info on the game drive and really enjoyed Dale.

Dinner was held in the boma and was very good and creative. A plated starter was served, followed by a traditional-style buffet. The roast beef off the grill was superb and the fish in a pesto-type sauce was also excellent, but the highlight for me was the duck slow cooked in a coconut milk sauce – amazing! A variety of salads and veggies were also available. Dessert was served plated, as well. The food was excellent.

Tanda Tula is ideal for honeymooners looking for a classic tented safari experience with the special extras such as soaking tubs and great amenities. Travelers looking for a tented camp would definitely enjoy the camp and experienced travelers or safari veterans will appreciate the intimacy of the camp and the service levels. The camp also offers a wide variety of activities and is one of the few places in the area where you can do overnight walking/fly camping. We do get consistently good feedback on Tanda Tula and I think it’s a great value in terms of cost vs level of experience. Tanda Tula definitely feels like a family owned and operated camp and it shows in the service levels and quality throughout. Tanda Tula definitely ranks high on my list of Kruger area gems.

May 6 – Timbavati Private Nature Reserve and Ngala Private Game Reserve

From Tanda Tula we did a site inspection at King’s Camp and Waterbuck Private before heading on to Ngala main and Ngala Tented Camp. While I understand that King’s Camp may not be everyone’s favorite style, I really was quite impressed. The gardens and lawns are manicured and the setting is really beautiful (if pax are looking for a more wild setting – then Ngala or Motswari would be a good choice). The camp has plenty of space for guests to find a little alcove to settle in with a book or grab a chaise lounger in the sun. The bar is one of the most historic in the area and was so cozy and welcoming. The boma is actually partly covered, so it can be utilized when weather isn’t great. Each of the nine rooms features lots of dark wood, white marble, classic design mixed in with more contemporary pieces. The manageress does all of the interiors herself, and I noticed her attention to detail and personality coming through. A spa is available for treatments and the assistant manager is also a masseur. The honeymoon suite (one of two) was stunning with it’s own plunge pool and spacious sitting area. Standard rooms have their own outdoor patio, minibar and tea/coffee service, plus indoor/outdoor showers. I think King’s Camp really offers a 5* experience at a great value. Plus, the attentive management delivers a very high level of service.

Waterbuck is the exclusive use property just adjacent (a short drive from Kings) and was absolutely stunning. While King’s is more classic, Waterbuck has a super chic, contemporary safari feel. I wish my house looked like Waterbuck. The 4 bedrooms (one detached and the remaining in the main house) are spacious and well-appointed. Public areas include an impressive kitchen (fully staffed with chef and servers), plus lounge/living room area, dining room, upstairs lounge in the master suite. Plus, a beautiful shaded patio with braai area and fire pit overlooking the river below. There pool and substantial grassy offer ample space for kids to run around. Waterbuck ranks on my top 5 for exclusive use, family-friendly hideaways. A must for families or a group of friends looking for a luxurious exclusive use option. Paired with great guiding and a game-rich area this option is a winner! Who wants to join me for an exclusive use at Waterbuck…all we need is a group of 6?! 😉

Motswari (now under Newmark Hotels management) is nearby and is an excellent option for young honeymooners, families who need inter-connecting rooms and travelers who are looking for a chill safari experience. Each of the 15 South African-style rondavels are comfortable and feature unique art and design elements, sitting areas, en suite bathrooms, A/C and private verandahs. The owner is an artist and her art is displayed throughout the lodge. There are some very cool, funky design elements and I really like the bohemian feel of the lodge. They are currently in the process of renovating the suites and have completed two new ones. The new units are really impressive – very chic design, earth-tones and loads more space. Additionally, the lodge is very eco-friendly with natural landscaping and other special measures. The pool overlooks the river bed and there are plenty of private spaces to relax – nooks, reading rooms, lounge/bar area. The shop features some beautiful art pieces and carefully selected items. I really love Motswari and, especially with the new rooms (see below right), it’s one of my favorite spots. Great combo with Four Rosmead in Cape Town, Notten’s or Dulini in the Sabi Sand and what about a beach add-on to Newmark’s Mozambique property, Coral 15.41 Lodge outside of Nampula (direct flights from Joburg to Nampula on SAA Airlink!).

From Motswari, we headed South into the far reaches of the Timbavati to Ngala main lodge and Ngala Tented Camp. Both are under &Beyond management and the two properties are quite a distance apart (about 20 mins or so). Ngala Main is a large lodge-style property with 20 traditional South African thatched rondavels. The rooms feel very much like a mainstream hotel to me with floral fabrics in reds/maroon and deep greens. The lodge does need a soft reburb and some attention, but overall for a mid-level lodge product it is acceptable. I do think most Americans looking for a luxury safari experience would find it too large and mainstream feeling. Lunch was excellent – a variety of fresh salads (roasted beet and butternut was great!), cheese platter, pastries and a delicious custard with meringue. The outdoor boma area (above left) is very Moroccan looking and I’d imagine quite elegant in the evening. It’s hidden away by two large wooden sliding doors. Because the lodge is larger the seating is private, which can be nice at the end of the day. The best thing about the property is Mama Connie, the lodge manager who greets everyone with genuine love and excitement and manages the camp decked out in her stylish ADIDAS, dyed purple hair and amazing nails. She’s clearly the soul of the camp and its greatest strength. I think it could be OK for the right clients, but consider carefully. There is a nice family unit with a swimming pool that would be a good value. Overall, I think Ngala Tented is probably a better option for most higher-end clients, but for the right traveler Ngala Main is an option – think: multi-generational family on a budget!

From Ngala Main we drove to Ngala Tented (a route the traveler wouldn’t normally do), about 25 mins on dirt track. The tented lodge is completely removed from the main lodge and functions totally on its own. For some reason I thought they were closer to each other than they are. Ngala Tented has a lovely setting and has recently been refurbed. The 9 tented suites are really beautiful with the main bed area at the front, crisp linens, a dressing area behind the bed and the bathroom at the back with indoor bathtub and outdoor only shower. The toilet is completely enclosed with a proper door, which is nice. The only bummer is the outdoor only shower in the winter…it was COLD in the morning! The large indoor soaking tub was a plus, though. Finishings are lovely, as expected from &Beyond. The room has a large writing desk/vanity, mini bar with its own handcrafted cocktail syrups and such. The bathtub is surrounded with bath salts and amenities. Heaters and A/C are available in the tents, which is nice. The night we were there it was absolutely freezing and we actually slept with the heater on in our room.

On arrival at Ngala Tented, we headed out on a game drive. Our ranger was a South African gal and while she was enthusiastic and pleasant, she wasn’t the most well-informed guide I’ve had and I was a little disappointed overall. While I was happy to see a female guide, her guiding wasn’t as high level as other guides I’d experienced at other &Beyond camps. We did have excellent wildlife sightings – we followed a leopard through the bush for quite some time and had the awesome experience of listening to it call as it was lying in the grass. The whole time we were following the leopard, lions were calling in the background. It was magical. The view of the Drakensberg Mountains from the area is stunning and at sunset, the range turns purple in the fading light – a beautiful silhouette. We also saw a crash of rhinos, buffalo and a large male elephant in must. The landscape around Ngala is really diverse with dry river bed, following river, dense forest and grasslands. I really enjoyed that aspect of the camp.

After game drive we returned to camp for dinner. The bar area is beautifully designed and &Beyond always seems to come up with very trendy decor and unique ideas that make me say, “wow, I need to do that at home!” Our servers were attentive, staff was lovely, but management was a bit absent – especially when compared to Ngala main’s Mama Connie! The food at meals was very good, as it tends to be with &Beyond, and the atmosphere was nice, but I’m not necessarily a big fan of the safari vehicle dining as a group. It’s hard to say when group dining works and when it doesn’t, totally depends on the dynamic of the guide and fellow travelers. I think for a boma dinner it’s fine, but otherwise I prefer a bit of privacy when dining. Our night at Ngala Tented was a night I wished we were on our own apart from the rest of the vehicle. The dinner experience, although very good food wise, was diminished because of how cold it was. We weren’t offered blankets at any point and the fire wasn’t big enough to warm us properly. While I was eating, I could see my breath. At this level camp, I’d expect blankets and a roaring fireplace. Our guide was even chatting about how this was the week they’d start putting hot water bottles out in the game drive vehicles in the morning…as we were all sitting there, teeth chattering at dinner! Boy was I happy to return to our room with the heater cranking, enjoy a nightcap and long soak in the huge tub.

May 7 – Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve

The next morning as we headed out to pack up our car the young assistant manager stood and watched us load things up rather than offering or getting help. The management of a lodge can truly change the experience. Overall, however, I feel that Ngala Tented is a great option for honeymooners – the camp and setting is very romantic – couples or a small group. I wouldn’t put families with younger kids here as the camp has had leopard in camp, plus the atmosphere is just a bit more geared towards couples. In this area, Ngala Main, Motswari or Tanda Tula are ideal for families (or Waterbuck, of course, depending on group size!).

Upon departing Ngala we headed south to the Northern Sabi Sand – an area I hadn’t yet explored and was keen to experience. There are some really up-and-coming properties in the area, plus it is a great value. We were picked up at the Gowrie Gate and headed straight to Chitwa Chitwa for a site inspection and lunch. WOW! This lodge is stunning. There’s no way around it. Absolute 5* experience and such a great value. Book early to get space as this place fills fast…the price for experience is amazing. The lodge overlooks what the South Africans call a dam (we’d call it a reservoir) and the grassy savannah on the opposite side of the lake was chock-a-block with antelope species, waterbuck, elephant, a hippo out of the water mid-day, and previous in the week, they’d spotted wild dog and a leopard across the water (the leopard, which we later spotted on game drive in the area). The main areas of the lodge are so unique that they are hard to describe. Think lots and lots of amazing sculpture, contemporary art, hand-crafted pieces…the owner of Chitwa Chitwa is an artist and she does all of the design at the lodge. I want to hire her to outfit my house with art. Incredible. Soaring ceilings in the lounge hung with ornate chandeliers, black leather furniture, a massive elephant skull sculpture. It’s beyond unique and maybe wouldn’t appeal to a more conservative traveler, but I was blown away by the design and concept of the lodge. Lunch and sometimes dinner are served on the massive deck overlooking the river, the dining area is covered by a thatched roof and decked out with white linen curtains and lanterns. I’d imagine it’s quite romantic in the evening lit with candles. The boma is behind the main area, with a secret entrance and boasts a collection of candles and their wax drippings which have accumulated over the years.

The six luxury suites, the Charsly suite, which is their family interleading option, and the Chitwa House (the 2 bedroom villa) are spread out along the dam and offer the utmost of privacy. Each room has it’s own outdoor shower, deck overlooking the water, indoor soaking tub, sitting room with fireplace, canopied bed…the rooms feature the same incredible modern art and luxurious funkiness that the main areas do. The bathrooms we really impressive. The Chitwa House is a great 2-bedroom suite that shares a lounge area, which would be ideal for two couples traveling together or adult kids with parents. The largest suites are really opulent, and dare I…but Chitwa’s suites feel so unique, spacious and luxurious that they easily would compete with Singita or Lion Sands Ivory Lodge, and, for travelers looking for something oozing artistic personality, this spot is truly a hidden gem.

We wined and dined our afternoon away at Chitwa, wowed by Dinho, the amazing in-house Mozambican sommelier. The charcuterie platter was incredible – springbok carpaccio, a variety of other cured meats, chutneys galore, dried and fresh fruit, cheeses from around the world. I’m nearly drooling now thinking about it. The wine pairing was superb – a light and fruity pinot gris and the sommelier was the perfect balance of assertive and approachable. Sigh, what a great afternoon.

The bottomline: Book it now when the rates are still an amazing value. Calling all honeymooners, 30 – 40 somethings, New Yorkers, San Franciscans, Angelenos and the Chicago art scene folks. This is a great bet. Jet set families – they do have a kiddies program and higher end families would not feel at all out of place here. Just a few weeks before we arrived a couple were married on the savannah across the lake and later enjoyed their reception in the boma, inviting the lodge guests to join them. Priceless. This is the place where you send your special/VIP travelers and they feel loved, attended to and spoiled rotten. The managers are professional underwater photographers and world explorers, having managed properties from Indonesia to the Caribbean. And it shows. The shop is perfectly stocked with items you’d struggle to find other places and the small gym and spa (which is currently being refurb’d) offer a quiet escape for those travelers who feel they have to work off all those fine dining calories.

While this area does have other lodges nearby (Arathusa), Djuma and Simbambili, the game is very solid and traversing rights are good. I think the key here is to make sure travelers understand that they can see game, and lots of it, from their deck overlooking the dam. The rooms beg to be enjoyed. I could see the right traveler going on morning game drive and relaxing for the afternoon and evening around the lodge and just watching game from their privacy of their deck overlooking the dam. Love it!

From our site inspection and luncheon at Chitwa Chitwa, we headed to Simbambili for check-in, some free time and our afternoon game drive. Simbambili is under the Thornybush Collection, but is outside of the Thornybush Reserve in the Northern Sabi Sand near Chitwa Chitwa along the Manyeleti River. Simbambili is a very solid 4* option at a great price (Thornybush calls this a 5* lodge, which I’d agree in terms of service, guiding and experience, but I would not put this in the same category as Chitwa Chitwa, Ivory or Singita, so bear that in mind). Each of the 8 suites are spacious, offer great amenities and loads of privacy. Each room features a massive bed enclosed with a mosquito net (with the nightstands INSIDE the net!), a lounge area with chaise, writing desk, mini bar/tea coffee service, loads of closet space, safe, huge en suite bathroom with indoor shower, soaking tub and separate toilet. The private verandah overlooking the dry river bed is really an awesome selling point. The deck is huge, complete with two chaise loungers, a plunge pool and private sala with two-person mattress. We had an hour or so of chill time before our game drive and all of us retreated to our rooms and spent the time reading and napping on the deck. For those of you who have see Chobe Chilwero, the style and Moroccan decor of the rooms at Simbambili, dark woods and richly colored tiles, is similar. For the price, this is an incredible value (New Frontiers has a special offer for a 3 night stay that puts this lodge well under $400 pp/pn) – ideal for honeymooners looking for a great price, couples who want more of a lodge feel, but with ample privacy and families.

Our afternoon game drive was excellent – with a cheetah (had killed a small kudu) – buffalo, elephants and more. Guiding was great (our guide, Liam, is the lodge manager along with his wife, Alison). The landscape is nice and many areas are less dense and brushy so visibility is good. Liam was the ideal balance of professional and knowledgeable with personal and warm. I think this is a winning combo in a guide.

Upon returning to the lodge, we were greeted with a warm towel and had time to freshen up before meeting for cocktails in the cozy lounge with a roaring fire. The main areas have great ambiance and a very homely feel. There’s a small boma area where dinners are often held and we made our way there after drinks. The food was delicious, really very good – butternut soup, a beautiful salad, lamb that was perfectly cooked. Liam hosted and the female chef came out to introduce the menu. The fire was just enough to keep us cozy on the chilly night – plus they did offer us blankets – and we looked out over the flood-lit watering hole keeping our eyes peeled for nocturnal species. We weren’t lucky that night, but they often spot hyenas, nocturnal cats and more.

I think the key with Simbambili is the price-point for the level of service and experience, the welcoming feeling that the staff create and the attention and involvement of the management is perfect. This lodge would be ideally combined with somewhere like Dulini or Savanna, or Tanda Tula for a tented option. I’d pair it with V&A Waterfront, Kensington or Four Rosmead for honeymooners, as well as many of the Seasons in Africa properties or Phinda (although logistics are a bit complicated). In Joburg, you could use the Peech and up at Vic Falls Elephant Camp as a luxury option or Ilala Lodge as a mid-level would all compliment Simbambili nicely. Simbambili is sold a a 5*, but it’s a tough call to categorize as I feel the service, food, guiding and overall experience were definitely 5*, but the rooms (which, don’t get me wrong are really lovely) are a bit more 4*+. I wouldn’t categorize this with other 5*s but the experience shines above most 4* lodges. This is a great affordable option that looks like a bigger splurge in an itin than the price indicates (especially with our New Frontiers’ special 3 night offer). Or it can be used to add a second game viewing area at a very affordable price. This lodge was a true highlight of our trip and wins my “most surprising, in a good way!” award for this SA trip.

May 8 – Sabi Sands

From Simbambili, we headed down for site inspections at the Sabi Sabi Lodges. Surprisingly enough, this was my first time seeing the lodges in all these years visiting and selling South Africa. The thing that was completely upheld/reaffirmed by my visit is that Sabi Sabi indeed has something for everyone. My family (3 � yr old in town), my husband’s college roommate, my best friend from childhood and her family (2 � yr old and infant) and her mom are all heading over to SA in December and we chose Sabi Sabi Bush Lodge because of its awesome Elefun Kids Center, the swimming pools, child minding so us adults can all go out on a game drive or two, whiskey bar for the boys and ample space for everyone to unwind and relax. And, I have to say now that I’ve seen Bush Lodge, I’m SO pleased that’s what we chose. We didn’t have many options that would accept our little kiddies, but boy am I glad that Sabi Sabi was one! The refurb’d main areas (softs) are looking great – the fabrics are classic and soft, the main areas have ample space for a good-sized lodge, the whiskey bar is a cool little spot and the main bar feels like a great classic hideaway. I love when a lodge doesn’t try to be something it’s not. Bush Lodge is a classic, smart safari lodge that oozes class, comfort and confidence in doing what it does best. The 25 rooms (we saw a refurb’d one) are spacious with a huge sitting area/lounge that has a built-in daybed (great for kids), a massive king size bed with mozzie net (they will hang a mozzie net for kids, too), a huge bathroom with shower, tub and double sink basin and walk-in closet. The room is massive and has a beautiful verandah with a great view and a cool little arid enclosed garden that allows lots of light into the bedroom while retaining the privacy.

The Elefun Center is a major selling point. This place is cool. It’s basically better than the nursery school my son goes to in Seattle! An old Rover for the kids to climb on, outdoor play area, indoor play area with fireman’s pole, reading room, activity center with painting and crafts. The outdoor wall is covered in handprints from all of the little visitors. What a find! This place really makes safaris a family affair. Kids under 4 need to be accompanied by a parent or a child minder as they take kids up to 12 yrs and want the younger ones to be supervised properly.

The bottomline: This is THE place for families who want their kids to be involved in the safari experience. The Elefun Center is just one element. They also have a jr ranger program and all sorts of fun ways for kids to be involved and learn about the bush. Plus, almost all of the management teams have young kids so it’s really, truly family-friendly. Because of this, I’m not sure I’d put a honeymoon couple here…but an older couple who don’t mind kids around (ie folks who are already grandparents and traveling alone as a couple likely wouldn’t mind the kids). Just be aware that it’s very family friendly. Honeymooners would be better suited by Little Bush, Selati or Earth.

From Bush Lodge we continued to the other lodges. Little Bush is quite intimate and the pool and dining options – dry river bed, etc. are really stunning. I think for someone looking for a classic safari experience in an intimate setting (honeymooners, Baby Boomers), this is the place. Personally, the rooms were a bit dark for me, but everyone I was with loved them. I’m so light sensitive that I can’t always be trusted! 😉 The big plus here is the jacuzzi on the deck, especially in the Southern Hemisphere winter months…cozy and romantic! With only 6 suites, this is a very intimate lodge.

Selati with its 8 suites, for me, was a sleeper hit! Especially the suite – wow! Huge and so impressive. I loved the styling and I think it would be so cool to design a classic safari itinerary that highlighted train experiences. Pair Selati with a journey on the Rovos Rail, then head up to Vic Falls and pair with Vic Falls Hotel and a sundowner ride on the train there. Awesome trip for train aficionados!

Earth Lodge is definitely very, very unique. I “got it” and for the right people it would be a trip highlight. It’s ideal for the jet set type who really want total privacy, a top of the line spa and don’t mind the very mod feel. I think it’d be ideal for young, trendy honeymooners paired with Kensington Place in Cape Town, then maybe the Saxon or DaVinci in Joburg. It’d be a great fit with a secondary safari destination like Molori (for the really high end) in Madikwe or Chitwa Chitwa in the Northern Sabi Sand – even the contrast of something like Bushmans Kloof would be cool. Use Earth as the single “wow” factor in an itinerary or combine with other really trendy properties for an uber-chic itinerary that really take pax from one unique stop to the next! The right folks with love Earth, the service was great, my burger at lunch was awesome, the spa was really special. Pax who seek something more classic but still within Sabi Sabi, try my “sleeper hit” suite at Selati (see right).

Guiding is always super solid at Sabi Sabi and they have the professional photographer program (link here), which is a very cool option. So, really between Bush Lodge, ideal for families, Little Bush for young honeymooners who prefer a classic style, Selati for well-traveled folks who would enjoy the historical/train aspect (which, btw, is NOT overdone) or honeymooners who want a massive suite but not the super mod feel of Earth, then lastly, Earth Lodge for those who want something really unique – there’s nothing else like it! Each of the 13 suites are unique and feature dramatic wood pieces, rough hewn mud walls and well-appointed bathrooms. The verandahs and plunge pools are completely private and, if a travelers chose, wouldn’t have to see others during their stay at the lodge unless they wanted.

From Sabi Sabi we continued to Singita Ebony. I’ve stayed at Grumeti’s Faru Faru and Sasakwa and Pamushana, and had done site inspections of Boulders and Ebony, but was happy to spend the night and experience the service and dining. Ebony has had softs done and some refurbs since I was there last and it’s looking great. I love the dark woods and rich fabrics of this lodge. Singita really describes it best when they say that Boulders is a “summer” lodge and Ebony is a “winter” lodge. Boulders is light-colored, airy, fresh and on-trend. Ebony is classic, cozy fireplaces, heated plunge pools and rich colors. Very classic. I love the b/w photos in the lodge, the historical feel (even though it is not a historical property, per se, but it was the first Singita lodge) the fireplaces. The service, as to be expected, is excellent. We had one of Singita’s top guides, Ross, and he’s awesome. Very chill and low-key, which I love in a guide, but super professional and extremely knowledgeable. He also had a great rapport with the tracker, which I always look for and note. A good relationship there means so many things: respect, flexibility, teamwork, etc. which all play into the overall experience of a property. Ross is also an incredible photographer – keep an eye out for his images on the Singita facebook page.

I was in one of the adjoining suites with my travel mate, which means we each had our own sitting area, bedroom, bathroom, huge walk-in closet, private deck with heated swimming pool and sitting area, etc. We shared a living room with fireplace and deck. There are two of these two-bedroom units and they are idea for couples who are traveling together or parents with older kids, etc. There are 10 one-bedroom suites. Amenities are only the best – Dermalogica – and of course watercolor kits, sketchbooks, etc in the room. I actually painted!

We had a relatively quiet game drive until the end, when we encountered a leopard trying to scare a hyena away from her territory – very cool!. We had an excellent sundowner at “the beach” which is a wide sandy area overlooking the river. Very cool spot, although there were a couple other vehicles there it was still nice.

Dinner was amazing. There’s no two ways about it. The chef came out and introduced herself and she was such a sweetie. All the staff is just so kind and welcoming that it doesn’t matter if you are royalty or an everyday Joe, you feel at ease. The wine pairing was phenomenal. They poured my favorite – pinotage – and it was the best one I’ve had. Of course. Our waiter encouraged us to mix and match, taste different items off the menu and share. The kitchen was beyond accommodating. The one thing that I didn’t love, but in theory is impressive, is their ability to keep dietary preferences on hand from previous stays and observe them on a travelers’ return. I had noted my dietary preferences last time I was at Grumeti and they carried them through to this trip. Which was fine, but I would have preferred at check in if they had reconfirmed that those preferences still stood rather than applying them without asking. I would have made a change! Needless to say, this isn’t really an “issue” as most travelers preferences/allergies, etc don’t change, but bear in mind and always ask your travelers and you can update New Frontiers and we’ll communicate with Singita. The only other thing I don’t love about Ebony is the dining room. It’s a bit odd to me – the paintings on the way seem a bit dated and not so “classic” and the space itself is a bit awkward and doesn’t feel as luxe and cozy as the rest of the lodge. I remember thinking this last time I saw it and my opinion still stands, although the dining experience certainly wasn’t affected by this!

After stuffing ourselves and drinking as much of the exceptional pinotage that allowed for an early-wake up, we headed to our rooms to make use of our soaking tubs, heated plunge pools and paint sets!

May 9 – Sabi Sands

The next morning we headed to Boulders to see the main areas as the lodge was full. It is a beautiful spot, I just prefer the classic style, especially when it’s cool out, of Ebony. Boulders is very chic and the design is impressive, though. I think this is where you want to read your pax and know which style they prefer. I do have to say that for a more modern, chic style, I prefer Lion Sands Ivory Lodge over Boulders, plus for high end travelers it is smaller and more private. That said, Boulders certainly won’t disappoint. We stopped at the boutique, which is more of an EMPORIUM of amazing jewelry, gifts, interior design wares, clothing, etc. I could spend an entire morning there exploring. They serve tea and snacks and the shop also houses the wine shop and tasting room where they can arrange for freight shipping of your favorite labels, etc. It’s impressive. Both lodges have wine cellars, as well, and I highly recommend that pax do a wine tasting or a dinner in the cellar. Wine tastings are included in the stay.

Just as luck would have it, upon departure my safe wouldn’t open (it wasn’t operator error, it eventually had to be drilled open!) and my passport was stuck inside. With my wallet, cash, etc. We were heading to Dulini and Savanna and then hopping on our flight to Durban to I needed it that morning. In true Singita fashion, they got it out and delivered it to me at Dulini where we stopped for a site inspection. Thanks guys!

After Singita we drove over to Dulini (see photo right) and continued to Savanna. The two lodges are now under a marketing umbrella together and Dulini is no longer under the &Beyond portfolio. I LOVE this little lodge. Its 6 suites are in the process of being refurb’d and we saw one of the new ones. Boy did they hit the nail on the head. The design is perfect. Cool, crisp and understated. Modern while still allowing the views of the bush and the experience of being in a game lodge to shine. Management is hands-on and the current manageress came back to Dulini after management changed from &Beyond, she’d been at the lodge prior for many, many years and her love for the place shows. Public areas are simple, but welcoming. The key here is in the intimate size of the lodge and the refurb’d rooms. This would be a great pairing with Ngala Tented, Tanda Tula or Makanyane out in Madikwe. I was really impressed. Book this lodge for honeymooners, couples, small groups (women traveling together, etc.). It’s peaceful and feels special. The kind of place you’d want to return year after year.

Savanna is one of my personal favorites. It really feels like family friend’s have a vacation home in the bush and have invited you for the weekend. The lodge is privately owned, and it shows. Public areas are cozy and welcoming, the 9 suites (7 have tented ceilings, creating a nice romantic effect) are well-appointed and feature classic, colonial style furniture and fabrics. The bathrooms are huge and one of my favorite signature amenities are the handmade “egg shell” bath oils that line the tub. When you return from the late afternoon/evening game drive, the tub is filled with bubble bath and a sherry is waiting for you at the edge of the tub. The food is excellent (the do have a fully kosher kitchen in the suite), gourmet while still being down-to-earth, and they do an excellent job with dietary restrictions (read: gluten free bread, dairy free options, etc). I think Savanna is one of the best values in the Sabi Sand. The service levels, guiding and overall experience are so high. Something new for this year – the historic train tracks that run through the property have been turned into something unique rather than an eyesore. An original train car has been beautifully restored and during the cooler months of the year, special dinners can be served inside the train car not far from the lodge. Even though Savanna is on the edge of the Sabi Sands and, technically, not too far from the fence line, it still does feel bush-y. The lush gardens have really filled in and created a very private environment. Over the years I’ve been visiting the lodge, I have noticed that the foliage has really filled in and changed the atmosphere quite a bit. Savanna and Dulini are now operating under a marketing agreement together. I think Savanna is ideal paired with King’s Camp or a new suite at Motswari in the Timbavati, possibly Ngala Tented. The Savanna Suite offers two adjoining suites that are completely private and ideal for families with older children or two couples traveling together. The Executive suites and the Savanna Suite feature their own patios and plunge pools. The luxury rooms have indoor and outdoor bathrooms (as do the Savanna and Executive).

We also visited Lion Sands River Lodge. We walked through Ivory, but they were fully booked so we weren’t able to see a room. River Lodge offers 20 rooms (12 luxury and 8 superior, photo left), two sets are inter-leading for families, a gym and spa, two swimming pools (one in the sun and one in the shade), viewing deck (the river deck was washed out in the floods last year), main lodge area with bar, shop, lounge area and outdoor dining patio. The rooms are very chic, white and neutral colors – lots of beautiful art, natural woods and rattan. I do really like the styling at River Lodge, the setting is also ideal overlooking the river bed. The only issue is that it is a larger property and for the bush dinners with all of the tables lined up – it does seem like a large lodge.

Ivory is one of my favorite 6* properties. Hands-down. I actually think it is more private and exclusive due to the small number of units, pass-through window in the suites, the absolutely stunning view, plunge pools, etc., etc. Public areas are extremely well designed, lots of private areas and different alcoves. I think for VIP clients and honeymooners who require absolute privacy this is a great option. It is truly the most private option in the Sabi Sand.

While South Africa’s Sabi Sand isn’t the most wild of game options (however, the Outpost is very wild feeling), it does offer an extremely diverse game experience, excellent level of accommodations and top level experience in terms of fine dining and wine. One of South Africa’s true strengths is its diverse tour offerings – from Cape Town and the winelands, to the Garden Route and Zululand, and game experiences in the greater Kruger and Kalahari, it is truly a broad experience. Every time I go to South Africa, I am constantly impressed by the offerings and variety of experience. I love the fine dining, excellent wine and top notch guides. South Africa is an ideal first-time safari destination, but also offers a wide enough variety to cater to repeat safari goers. New Frontiers offers some of the best product knowledge in the region, and Faith Johnson, our South African product manager is one of the most well-traveled gals in the industry.

For more images from our exploratory trip, please check out the Kusini Collection Facebook page.